Hot Pattern Jacket.

NAVY HEAVY SILK/CREAM SILK for Hot Pattern KISS ME COAT

 I want to make this Hot Pattern  Coat for the 2112 SWAP Or really I just want to make it.  I have the gorgeous purple linen that I so wanted to make it from , but could not work out the colour for the piping.

After much thinking, and a little more procrastinating I decided to use this heavy navy silk that I bought  when we lived in China, so I have had it for 8 years!!!  One side is a little shiny then the other,  I will use this side.  The silk/cotton fabric will be made into piping and I will need to think about the colour for the lining?  Most likely navy?

This will be the most difficult/time consuming piece in the collection.  I have about 4.5 metres of the silk and hopefully have enough for some pants.

Snazzy aka "Prince Rotton"  "The Grey Lord"  "Cranky Puss" has given it his approval.

Silk Over Blouse

I thought this pattern would be good for wearing to the beach.  We spend a lot of time walking and swimming there and I hate getting sunburnt, especially since I wear my hair so short the back of my neck gets it.

 The blouse was made from a heavy silk ( that I cannot remember buying) it was sooooo long ago.  It has been cut out and hiding in the sewing room for about six months.  I cut it out for the 2011  SWAP. ( I just cut out lots of garments, and tried not to procrastinate too much on my choices) I was into speed sewing! I couldn't really use it as it did not have any 'new' techniques.   Now I remember, I  had the pockets cut out (they were the new tech) but decided not to attract attention to that area of my body!!!!

What I love about Burda patterns is that the model is 5' 6" and I am 5' 6".   I have long arms and you can see the finished length of my shirt is about the same as the photo on the pattern.  How good is that!

Sewing Workshop Pattern

I have been following the thread in The Sewing Workshop patterns at the Stitchers Guild and purchased 2 patterns.  I have made the Liberty Shirt and really like.  Boxy straight garments suit me and I think I will have to make a few more.

Liberty Shirt  Sewing Workshop Pattern

 I used a piece of left over thick light blue linen  and just squeeezed it out.  I cut a med....  it went together easily and I love  how neatly it is finished on the inside!  Is it Japanese inspired???

SWAP 2012  Chinese Year of the Dragon

The new rules are out for the SWAP and because of the lack of participation last year it has all changed.   The goal this year is to develop some TNT patterns.  This means patterns that can be used again and again with different fabric etc to created new looks.  We have to make 7 garments from a possible choice of 11 or is it 12 now, four of these are to be made again.  Sounds simple enough however,  BUT IT IS alway difficult following the rules.

So thinking  should I start from the top of the list and work down or maybe select every second garment type????   Got too many ideas...by the way looks like I am retiring or unemployed on January the 16th 2012.  The sale of the business settles on this date, (hopefully)  still need to train the new people and tidy up all the loose ends.  Daughter may get her DL back (after 6 months suspension) and February may be free of work.....

I have been working on the colour scheme...Cool Blue is above and here is Red Hot.

I seem to collect heavy fabric suitable for bottoms and not much that is light weight and suitable for shirts

I like to wear bright colours:   Both cool and Warm  Reds
                                                All blues
                                                Cool greens
                                                Turquoise  Aqua
                                                Purple

The neutrals that are my favourite are charcoal, navy, cream and black.   This is a new piece of batik fabric that I hope will go with either choice.


I have been working a few story boards...

This is the blue idea... I have always loved the Hot Pattern Coat and would like to sew it from a heavy purple linen .....but I am having a hard time selecting a colour for the piping so I am tossing up whether to make it from a really heavy navy silk with cream silk piping...  I think the navy may win out.  The items circles are those that I will make twice  (Maybe???) We are allowed to start fitting/organising patterns now and think we can start sewing one garment early.

The other thoughts that I have concerning this SWAP is whether to select classical garments....
Anyway, still thinking...Need to stop thinking and start sewing!!!!
                                             

Burda Fit

This is what I do to keep on top of fitting. I copied the Burda chart and usually scribble all over it. This sort of organising is left over from my teaching days.  I do not have the skills  or the time to develop my own patterns.  It is a cross between engineering, mathematics and creativity... I have enough trouble picking fabric that will suit various garments... the fall, resilience, texture, colour  etc  not to mention making a convenient wardrobe of items that go together.

I remember years ago sewing two jacket patterns,  both very similar, one Vogue and the other Burda.  The Burda jacket just looked better when completed.  That was a similar exercise that I did with the HP and BWOF pattern for the black skirt in the last blog.

Plot you measurements on the chart.

This page is for drawing on your persaonal changes.  What Changes you make to one pattern you make to all Burda Patterns.

I scribble all over the second page showing the alterations that I make  and keeping information that I need.
* Shaving a little off the thighs
* Writing on it what size I cut out  eg.  40  at the shoulders,  42 at the waist
*Write  measurements for how long I like skirts and pants. (How short a short skirt is)

 I know that Burda patterns are consistent and this saves so much time, material etc

When I started sewing the patterns,  I noticed that one shoulder was lower then the other,  this sort of information comes up as my measurements are not as accurate as Burda patterns!

Basic Black Skirt

I have had mock up of Hot Pattern skirt cut out for a while. When I put the HP pattern over the Burda it is so curvey, and I am shaped like a brick, not a curve in sight. So the HP pattern has a space for rounded thighs, I have straight hips... I have a theory that designers create clothes for a similar body shape to their own. I have notice this in RTW. Designers with small waists and large hip create clothes for that type. Other labels design for the straight body (me).

I have sewn so many Burda patterns and am used to the way they do things. But I admire the way Trudy at Hot Patterns puts together her patterns and the different way she thinks, as well her patterns are really interesting, and have a few jacket patterns and top patterns that I want to try.

The best thing about Burda Patterns is their consistant fit. I look at the photo on a model who is the same height as me....I study the fit and that is always the same as I get. If the pants are baggy then that is how they look on me... The sleeve always comes to the same length on me. I can make the same alterations to each pattern, sew it and put in my wardrobe and know it will fit. And what is great I make a few alterations...I cut size 40 at the shoulders tapering out to a size 42 in the middle and back to size for around the low hips.

This is the basic black "jean style" skirt that I made. I need to purchase some jean slides for the closure.

This is the Hot Pattern skirt Pattern/ burda WOF pattern that I have been fiddling with.

SWAP 2011 ONLY 2 ENTRIES?

I have been anxiously awaiting the posting of the SWAP photos, and was disappointed that only 2 SETS of photos are entered. One is mine and the other is Jennyanne's. So it looks as if I can come FIRST, SECOND or LAST..... Will I have to tell people that there were only 2 of us? Or can I boast that I came FIRST or SECOND and should I get some sympathy for coming LAST? Or maybe, I send my people to deal with Jennyanne?

Work has changed for me, and I am doing more, with less time to spend on me. SWAP took up a lot time and I stopped exercising and started eating more... need more time to make more clothes.

Had an idea for the red multi coloured dress but the weather has turned cold and no longer feel like making summer stuff. So I cut this out the other day. Okay, so I know it is summery...

I have never sewn lace before. This is not expensive stuff,,, just thought I would like to have a go at it. Maybe it will be better to use the overloocker??? Anyway I will give a go.

Originally, I did not buy enough lace to be able to use the scalloped edges on the sleeves, so I returned to fabric shop (this is a disposal store who buy anything) to see if I could find the lace, and spied some silk dupion for sale. Noticing my enthusiasm for the silk,

the sales assistant dragged me outside where a huge trolley was stacked with bolts of fabric, so we pulled and pushed and came up with about 15 rolls. So I just had to buy the cream, the dark red, blue, light aqua, purple etc etc... as if I need anymore fabric - but I really like it. As well, they had a trolly full of leather skins...so I bought a big brown one.

I have enough silk to make this burda dress and matching outfit?

So I have been washing, washing and washing the silk and I like it being all crinkly and wrinkly . I am going to make a cream shirt and add the wrinkles so I do not need to iron it! I have spare day Tuesday.. and hopefully Friday to get sewing done.

New Patterns

Bought some new patterns.

Thought I may make up this dress out of this printed rayon. The shorter version.

Like both the top and skirt... but have no ideas about the fabric.

This fabric works both ways, perhaps a jacket.

This was an unusual pattern.. maybe from linen.

UFO's

SWAP is gone so what do I tackle next??? The weather is cooling...and I am really confused as what to do. These are some of the UFOs that are cluttering the sewing room.

I love this pattern and have the top half made in a stretch velvet. I did not interface the collar as I had no idea of how to stop the velvet from flattening and/or melting. I overlocked most of the garment.

Need to coplete with the addition of bands and of course the bottoms. The problem with synthetic stretch velvet is that it is too hot and too cold.

This is another UFO. I have completed the cuffed pants but the unlined jacket just hangs .

This is sort of a work outfit. I have interfaced the entire jacket, but did not do a good job on one of the lapels and so it hangs.

This was another Burda WOF pattern, but the slub silk fabric is really fraying. I have the lining cut out. These are just a few of my UFOs.

Tonight is cold and I may just have to put shoes on and think about the next plan. How do others decide what to make and in what order especially when I have enough clothes. I am addicted to the creative possibilities of material, and therefore are always trying to decide what to make.

So Long SWAP

Completed, finished, yep the SWAP pics have been uploaded and sent. This is the last photo of the SWAP collection.

Lagoon Surf 2011

Lagoon Surf 2011, a set on Flickr.

Summer in Oz SWAP

Summer in Oz , a set on Flickr.

Had a busy day taking photos and mucking around with the computer. The SWAP sewing is completed. Still need to take a group photo of garments and some detailed shot of the new techniques.

Finished the grey sand washed silk dress yesterday and will post photos of the collar detail. also completed the grape coloured dress with the piping around the neck and sleeves. Wore that dress to breakfast. Have some photos of the locals surfing the release of water from the lagoon to the beach.

The lake becomes too full and is dug out by a digger. The water is released and a huge channel is eroded in the sand. The local children (also lots of adults) gather to surf the fast moving water which creates 'rapids' The lifesavers ride surfskies collecting the chldren that get swept
out to far... The energy is amazing... I have lots of photos on my flickr page. (see above)