Monday, May 23, 2011

Burda Fit

This is what I do to keep on top of fitting. I copied the Burda chart and usually scribble all over it. This sort of organising is left over from my teaching days.  I do not have the skills  or the time to develop my own patterns.  It is a cross between engineering, mathematics and creativity... I have enough trouble picking fabric that will suit various garments... the fall, resilience, texture, colour  etc  not to mention making a convenient wardrobe of items that go together.

I remember years ago sewing two jacket patterns,  both very similar, one Vogue and the other Burda.  The Burda jacket just looked better when completed.  That was a similar exercise that I did with the HP and BWOF pattern for the black skirt in the last blog.

Plot you measurements on the chart.
This page is for drawing on your persaonal changes.  What Changes you make to one pattern you make to all Burda Patterns.

I scribble all over the second page showing the alterations that I make  and keeping information that I need.
* Shaving a little off the thighs
* Writing on it what size I cut out  eg.  40  at the shoulders,  42 at the waist
*Write  measurements for how long I like skirts and pants. (How short a short skirt is)

 I know that Burda patterns are consistent and this saves so much time, material etc

When I started sewing the patterns,  I noticed that one shoulder was lower then the other,  this sort of information comes up as my measurements are not as accurate as Burda patterns!

Basic Black Skirt

I have had mock up of Hot Pattern skirt cut out for a while. When I put the HP pattern over the Burda it is so curvey, and I am shaped like a brick, not a curve in sight. So the HP pattern has a space for rounded thighs, I have straight hips... I have a theory that designers create clothes for a similar body shape to their own. I have notice this in RTW. Designers with small waists and large hip create clothes for that type. Other labels design for the straight body (me).

I have sewn so many Burda patterns and am used to the way they do things. But I admire the way Trudy at Hot Patterns puts together her patterns and the different way she thinks, as well her patterns are really interesting, and have a few jacket patterns and top patterns that I want to try.

The best thing about Burda Patterns is their consistant fit. I look at the photo on a model who is the same height as me....I study the fit and that is always the same as I get. If the pants are baggy then that is how they look on me... The sleeve always comes to the same length on me. I can make the same alterations to each pattern, sew it and put in my wardrobe and know it will fit. And what is great I make a few alterations...I cut size 40 at the shoulders tapering out to a size 42 in the middle and back to size for around the low hips.

This is the basic black "jean style" skirt that I made. I need to purchase some jean slides for the closure.
This is the Hot Pattern skirt Pattern/ burda WOF pattern that I have been fiddling with.

Sunday, May 15, 2011


I have been anxiously awaiting the posting of the SWAP photos, and was disappointed that only 2 SETS of photos are entered. One is mine and the other is Jennyanne's. So it looks as if I can come FIRST, SECOND or LAST..... Will I have to tell people that there were only 2 of us? Or can I boast that I came FIRST or SECOND and should I get some sympathy for coming LAST? Or maybe, I send my people to deal with Jennyanne?

Work has changed for me, and I am doing more, with less time to spend on me. SWAP took up a lot time and I stopped exercising and started eating more... need more time to make more clothes.

Had an idea for the red multi coloured dress but the weather has turned cold and no longer feel like making summer stuff. So I cut this out the other day. Okay, so I know it is summery...

I have never sewn lace before. This is not expensive stuff,,, just thought I would like to have a go at it. Maybe it will be better to use the overloocker??? Anyway I will give a go.

Originally, I did not buy enough lace to be able to use the scalloped edges on the sleeves, so I returned to fabric shop (this is a disposal store who buy anything) to see if I could find the lace, and spied some silk dupion for sale. Noticing my enthusiasm for the silk,

the sales assistant dragged me outside where a huge trolley was stacked with bolts of fabric, so we pulled and pushed and came up with about 15 rolls. So I just had to buy the cream, the dark red, blue, light aqua, purple etc etc... as if I need anymore fabric - but I really like it. As well, they had a trolly full of leather I bought a big brown one.
I have enough silk to make this burda dress and matching outfit?

So I have been washing, washing and washing the silk and I like it being all crinkly and wrinkly . I am going to make a cream shirt and add the wrinkles so I do not need to iron it! I have spare day Tuesday.. and hopefully Friday to get sewing done.

Sunday, May 8, 2011

New Patterns

Bought some new patterns.

Thought I may make up this dress out of this printed rayon. The shorter version.

Like both the top and skirt... but have no ideas about the fabric.

This fabric works both ways, perhaps a jacket.

This was an unusual pattern.. maybe from linen.


SWAP is gone so what do I tackle next??? The weather is cooling...and I am really confused as what to do. These are some of the UFOs that are cluttering the sewing room.
I love this pattern and have the top half made in a stretch velvet. I did not interface the collar as I had no idea of how to stop the velvet from flattening and/or melting. I overlocked most of the garment.
Need to coplete with the addition of bands and of course the bottoms. The problem with synthetic stretch velvet is that it is too hot and too cold.

This is another UFO. I have completed the cuffed pants but the unlined jacket just hangs .
This is sort of a work outfit. I have interfaced the entire jacket, but did not do a good job on one of the lapels and so it hangs.

This was another Burda WOF pattern, but the slub silk fabric is really fraying. I have the lining cut out. These are just a few of my UFOs.

Tonight is cold and I may just have to put shoes on and think about the next plan. How do others decide what to make and in what order especially when I have enough clothes. I am addicted to the creative possibilities of material, and therefore are always trying to decide what to make.

So Long SWAP

Completed, finished, yep the SWAP pics have been uploaded and sent. This is the last photo of the SWAP collection.